Are you heading to Mumbai? You’re in luck! I’ve created a complete Mumbai travel guide just for you.
Mumbai is one of the largest and most vibrant cities in India, a destination every traveler should experience at some point.
The city is renowned for its dramatic contrasts-from the opulent neighborhoods of the wealthiest Indians to the vast slums, some of the largest in Asia. And, of course, there’s Bollywood, the heart of Indian film production.
While capturing the true essence of Mumbai in just a few words is challenging, my Mumbai travel guide will help you explore the city in all its complexity. You’ll also find practical tips and essential information to make planning your trip easier.
Ready to uncover the secrets of Mumbai? Let’s dive in!
Mumbai Travel Guide: Introduction
My personal Mumbai travel guide starts with a brief introduction. Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, is India’s largest seaport.
Along with the surrounding areas, it forms one of the most densely populated and wealthiest metropolitan regions in the country, with over 20 million residents!
Mumbai is home to UNESCO World Heritage sites such as the Elephanta Caves and the impressive Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, as well as numerous other fascinating colonial-era buildings.
I must admit that my desire to visit Mumbai, as well as other places in southern India, was sparked by one of my favorite books, Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts.
The Mumbai described in the book seemed so intriguing and exotic-so different from our everyday lives-that I was immediately inspired to visit.
How to get to Mumbai?
To reach Mumbai directly from the USA, you can fly from New York (14 hours), Newark (14.5 hours), or San Francisco (17.5 hours).
Flight prices from San Francisco are around $800, while fares from New York start at $1400. You’ll also find direct flights from European cities like London, Paris, Amsterdam, and Warsaw, with flights from London starting at €600.
I personally flew to Mumbai from Kochi in Kerala. Although this is the fastest option, it is also more expensive.
The flight takes about two hours, not including the taxi ride to the hotel. Despite some congestion during my visit, I found it to be a comfortable choice.
While you could explore alternative transportation methods such as private buses or trains, I recommend air travel for its comfort, even if it costs a bit more.
Additionally, you can find direct flights to Mumbai from several Indian cities, including Delhi, Chennai, Bengaluru, and Goa.
When is the best time to travel to Mumbai?
The best time to visit Mumbai is from November to March, when temperatures are mild and the risk of rain is low. I personally traveled to Mumbai in November, and it was a very good decision.
It’s definitely advisable to avoid traveling during the monsoon season, from June to September, when heavy rainfall and high humidity can make sightseeing quite challenging.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Where to Stay?
Residency Hotel Fort
During my visit to Mumbai, I stayed at Residency Hotel Fort and highly recommend it. The hotel is centrally located in Mumbai’s cultural district, just a hundred meters from Victoria Station and a short walk from the Gateway of India and Colaba Causeway.
I was pleasantly surprised with a complimentary upgrade to a deluxe room. It was a fresh, well-furnished space with a large four-poster bed and a luxurious marble bathroom, all for 6,000 rupees per night.
The only minor issue was that the room was in an adjacent building, requiring a short walk to the main building for breakfast.
The hotel’s breakfast buffet was excellent, catering to both Hindu and European tastes. There was also a live cooking station where chefs prepared pancakes and eggs to order.
What really stood out was the exceptional service, almost five-star level. The staff were consistently friendly and helpful, providing fresh tea or coffee whenever requested and engaging in genuine, friendly conversations.
If you’re planning a stay in Mumbai, Residency Hotel is a fantastic choice!
What to Do in Mumbai?
Khala Goda
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus
One of my first stops in Mumbai was the renowned Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, a prominent colonial-era site.
Dating back to the late 19th century and formerly known as Victoria Terminus, this architectural marvel features an impressive neo-Gothic facade adorned with gargoyles with dog faces.
Although the station’s interior left a less favorable impression due to its neglect, its historical significance and UNESCO World Heritage recognition in 2004 make it a must-visit.
The site is believed to have witnessed the departure of the first Indian train several decades before the current station was established.
Jehangir Art Gallery
Besides its Victorian buildings, Mumbai has a lot to offer, including numerous art galleries and museums. One standout is the Jehangir Art Gallery, where you can view contemporary Indian art for free.
Make sure to visit not only for the art but also for the great views from the gallery’s rooftop. Although the rooftop café was closed when I went, the view was still enjoyable.
The gallery is open from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM, so there’s plenty of time to explore and appreciate the vibrant Indian contemporary art scene.
Churchgate
Marina Drive
Another popular spot in Mumbai, loved by both locals and tourists, is Marine Drive, a three-kilometer (1.86 miles) long seaside promenade that stretches along one of the city’s main streets.
Known as the Queen’s Necklace, the promenade lives up to its name when viewed from above at night, as its streetlights and curved shape resemble a string of pearls.
Marine Drive is always lively, often bustling even more in the evening than during the day. A walk along the promenade, especially at sunset, is highly recommended, as it looks its most stunning during this time.
Chowpatty Beach
No visit to Mumbai is complete without a stop at Chowpatty Beach, located at the northern end of Marine Drive. This spot is renowned for its stunning sunsets, although I missed out on this spectacle due to overcast skies during my visit.
Chowpatty Beach is a favorite among families and couples looking to unwind, but don’t plan on taking a dip-the water here isn’t suitable for swimming.
While you’re there, don’t miss the chance to try bhelpuri from the local vendors. This popular savory snack, made from puffed rice, tomatoes, onions, boiled potatoes, and a mix of tangy sauces, is a must-try for anyone visiting the area.
Colaba
Gateway of India
At the southern tip of Mumbai’s bustling Colaba neighborhood, the Gateway of India stands as one of the city’s most iconic landmarks-and a symbol of the nation itself.
This 30-meter (98 feet) tall basalt arch, built in the early 20th century, commemorates the visit of King George V and his consort, marking a significant moment of conquest and colonization.
Today, it’s a vibrant gathering spot for locals, vendors, photographers, and tourists from around the world. It’s also a great place to enjoy a variety of local delicacies.
Unfortunately, during my visit, the Gateway of India was closed, so I missed out on experiencing its usual charm up close.
However, the most breathtaking view of the Gateway is from the water, on a boat trip to the nearby Elephanta Island.
Taj Mahal Palace
Next to the iconic Gateway of India, the Taj Mahal Palace is a world-famous five-star hotel known for its luxury and grandeur. It’s one of the most photographed landmarks in India, and it looks especially impressive from the sea.
The hotel has a storied history, having hosted many notable guests and served as a haven during India’s fight for independence.
Unfortunately, after the 2008 attacks, the hotel was also associated with terrorism due to the dramatic images of the fire that spread worldwide.
If you have the opportunity, spending a night at this historic hotel is a memorable experience. Sadly, my budget didn’t stretch that far, but it remains a must-visit on my list.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Cruise to the Elephanta Island
If you find yourself needing a break from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai, consider taking a relaxing cruise to Elephanta Island.
This island features ancient rock-cut temples dedicated to Shiva, providing a peaceful retreat from the city.
Ferries leave daily from behind the Gateway of India, between 9:00 am and 5:00 pm. Tickets cost around 200 rupees and can be bought at booths before you board.
The cruise takes about an hour. Make sure to find a shaded spot to avoid the sun. Once you arrive, you’ll walk along a concrete pier and climb some stairs lined with local vendors before reaching the caves.
There’s an extra entrance fee of 600 rupees to explore the caves. Inside, you’ll find seven ancient caves with various rock-carved statues, including a notable six-meter (20 feet) statue of the three-faced god Shiva in the Great Temple.
To explore the entire complex, plan for about two hours. A visit to Elephanta Island is a great option for those with extra time in Mumbai, as the whole trip takes about half a day.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Dharavi Slums Tour
Mumbai is a city of stark contrasts. While some of the wealthiest people in the world live here, nearly 60% of the city’s population lives in extreme poverty in slums.
One of the largest and oldest slums is Dharavi, a three-square-kilometer area where about one million people reside, making it one of the most densely populated places in the world.
Originally home to fishermen, Dharavi later saw British settlers bringing in workers from various parts of India. Today, you can find potters from Gujarat, textile workers from Uttar Pradesh, and Tamil tanners living and working in Dharavi.
Reality Tours & Travel
For a long time, I wondered whether a visit to Dharavi would be worthwhile and how it might compare to the “human zoo” experience in Chiang Rai.
Ultimately, I decided to book a morning slum tour with a local guide through Reality Tours & Travel, which I found by chance. The tours start at 1,400 rupees.
If you’re planning to visit Dharavi, I highly recommend this tour company because 80% of their profits support a charity that helps with initiatives like children’s education.
During the four-hour tour, we navigated the maze of narrow streets and had the opportunity to see how residents, despite severe poverty and challenging living conditions, manage to make the best of their situation.
Dharavi is home to nearly 15,000 small businesses, with annual revenues estimated at almost $600 million! Compared to other slums, Dharavi has a relatively low illiteracy rate, with nearly 15% of children achieving higher education.
In addition to shops, factories, and multi-religious temples, Dharavi also has hospitals and schools. I visited one of these schools and donated supplies to the children.
Local Workshops
During the tour, we explored various small businesses, including potters, soap makers, textile producers, and tanners, where you can purchase leather goods.
A significant number of Dharavi residents are involved in manually sorting waste from across Mumbai. It’s impressive how even the smallest scraps are repurposed in local factories.
The people of Dharavi are almost self-sufficient, and there is much to learn from them. Their hard work, often for low wages and in unsafe conditions, is a testament to their remarkable resilience.
Despite the harsh living conditions and limited resources, Dharavi residents take great pride in their origins and small businesses. My visit to the Mumbai slums was truly thought-provoking.
Although photography was not allowed during the tour, the organizers provided some of their own photos, which I’m sharing below.
Where to Eat in Mumbai?
Burma Burma
Experience something special at this modern gem near Kala Ghoda’s artistic area. Widely regarded as one of Mumbai’s best, this restaurant serves delicious Burmese cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices for its high quality.
Start with the tasty corn puree with curry and coconut cream, served with crispy paratha bread. For the main course, try the flavorful Khowsuey soup with noodles.
Don’t miss out on an excellent cocktail and a rich dessert to finish your meal. For a memorable dining experience, this place is a must-visit in Mumbai.
The Goose and Gridiron
When you’re near the famous Victoria Station, make sure to visit The Goose and Gridiron, a restaurant housed in an elegant building. From the moment you step inside, you’ll be charmed by its cozy garden and unique decor.
The menu features a range of international dishes. During my visit, I enjoyed a vegetable soup, an Indian twist on my favorite Khao Soi, and white fish in a lemon-mustard sauce with fresh herbs.
Everything was wonderfully balanced, and I left feeling fully satisfied. If you’re looking to take a break from Indian cuisine and try something new, this place is a great choice.
Cafe Mondegar
If you’re in Colaba and craving a quick, casual European-style lunch with a good cocktail, head to the old-school Café Mondegar. This spot is a favorite among both locals and tourists.
During my visit, the main hall was bustling, so I was seated in a smaller, more intimate room at the back. Feeling quite hungry, I chose a large plate of creamy spaghetti as my main course.
While it might not have rivaled the pasta I’ve enjoyed in Tuscany, paired with a glass of white wine, it was surprisingly delightful. It’s an ideal place for a casual get-together with friends.
Revival
I visited Revivalu, a seaside restaurant known for its reputedly excellent thali, during my trip to Chowpatty Beach.
I hoped to enjoy a thali as good as the one I had in Palolem. However, I was disappointed by the service right from the start. I found out that you can’t order a single thali for two people since it’s served in an ‘all you can eat’ format.
After a heated discussion, I managed to order just one thali. Unfortunately, the situation had completely spoiled my appetite.
Despite this, the thali was quite tasty, though a bit pricey at around 500 rupees. The waiters, dressed in elegant attire, kept bringing new sauces and sides, so I left feeling full. Even though the service was unpleasant and pretentious, it’s a must-visit for thali enthusiasts!
The Pantry
If you’re craving delicious coffee or a sweet treat while exploring Mumbai, make your way to The Pantry, a bakery and café nestled in a beautifully restored townhouse.
The interior of The Pantry captures the charm of French bistros, offering a tempting array of sandwiches, cakes, cookies, and other baked delights.
In addition to its delightful pastries, you can enjoy scrumptious and health-conscious lunches and a variety of breakfast options.
Located in the heart of the artistic Kala Ghoda district, The Pantry’s atmosphere is further enhanced by its proximity to cultural and creative hubs.
Although the prices align with Mumbai’s upscale standards, the irresistible temptation of these culinary delights makes it well worth a visit!
Sassy Spoon
The last restaurant I visited in Mumbai, and in fact, in all of India, was Sassy Spoon, located right by Marine Drive in a sleek modern skyscraper.
This place has a fresh, vibrant feel, and the menu features a variety of intriguing dishes inspired by Mediterranean and modern Indian cuisines.
I enjoyed a three-course meal that included baked Camembert tartlets with chili jam, Korean-style chicken wings, and walnut dumplings with ricotta and garlic cream.
For dessert, I had dark chocolate cake with basil filling and red velvet cake with cappuccino foam and raspberry caviar.
Although the portions were relatively modest and the prices were on the higher side, the food was absolutely delicious.
I left feeling completely satisfied. It’s a great spot for a pleasant evening out and drinks!
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Mumbai Travel Guide: Conclusions
In summary, Mumbai, compared to other places I’ve visited in India, feels quite average. The challenging climate, crowds, and pushy vendors are some of the reasons I might not return.
The city isn’t very tourist-friendly-walking tours and using public transport are tough due to frequent traffic jams. Additionally, the presence of homeless people is a significant issue.
However, I was impressed by the wonderful restaurants with their diverse specialties and the intriguing locals. My visit to the Dharavi slums, where people stay cheerful despite tough conditions, gave me a lot to reflect on.
Despite these challenges, I encourage you to visit Mumbai and form your own opinion about the city. Mumbai has much to offer, and every trip is an opportunity to discover new perspectives.
What do you think about Mumbai? Share your thoughts in the comments below! And if you enjoyed this Mumbai travel guide, feel free to share it with your friends!
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