Undoubtedly, every traveler exploring India will inevitably journey to Mumbai – one of the nation’s largest metropolises. This city is famed for its vast contrasts, prominently displayed here. Mumbai hosts the wealthiest Hindus, coexisting with some of Asia’s largest slums. Despite being a prominent hub for Bollywood film production, the city grapples with a notable crime rate, forming a dynamic mix that elicits intense reactions. While words can only paint a partial picture of its ambiance, I’ve meticulously crafted a thorough Mumbai travel guide for you. Packed with valuable insights, my guide aims to facilitate your journey planning through this culturally diverse city. I trust that my Mumbai travel guide will prove invaluable for your trip!
Table of Contents
Mumbai Travel Guide: Introduction
My personal Mumbai travel guide kicks off with a brief introduction. Mumbai, formerly Bombay, now stands as India’s largest seaport, forming one of the most populous and affluent urban agglomerations in the country, boasting over 20 million residents!
Explore UNESCO World Heritage Sites like the caves on Elephanta Island and the iconic Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, along with numerous captivating colonial-style structures.
I must admit, my motivation for visiting Mumbai and many other places in southern India was sparked by reading ‘Shantaram’ by Gregory David Roberts. The captivating and exotic Mumbai depicted in the book immediately fueled my desire to experience it firsthand.
How to get to Mumbai?
To reach Mumbai directly from the USA, consider flights from New York (14 hrs), Newark (14.5 hrs), and San Francisco (17.5 hrs).
Sample flight prices from San Francisco are approximately 800 USD, while New York fares start at 1400 USD. Discover convenient direct flights from various European cities like London, Paris, Amsterdam, and Warsaw, with London flights priced from 600 EUR.
I personally flew to Mumbai from Kochi in Kerala, the fastest but pricier option. The flight takes about two hours, excluding the taxi ride to the hotel. Despite the congestion during my visit, I found the flight to be a more comfortable choice.
Explore alternative transportation methods like private buses or trains to Mumbai. However, I recommend air travel for its comfort, even if it comes at a slightly higher cost.
Moreover, direct flights to Mumbai are available from various Indian cities, including Delhi, Chennai, Bengaluru, and Goa.
When is the best time to travel to Mumbai?
Embark on your journey between November and March for mild temperatures and minimal rainfall. Steer clear of the monsoon season from June to September, marked by heavy downpours and elevated humidity.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Where to Stay?
Residency Hotel Fort
During my Mumbai visit, I chose Residency Hotel Fort, a recommendation I confidently extend. Situated in a prime location at the heart of Mumbai’s cultural district, merely a hundred meters from Victoria Station and a stroll away from the Gateway of India and Colaba Causeway.
To my delight, I received a complimentary upgrade to a deluxe room, featuring a new, well-appointed space with a spacious four-poster bed and a luxurious marble bathroom, all at a rate of 5,500 rupees per night. The only drawback was the room’s location in an adjacent building, requiring a short walk to the main building for breakfast.
The hotel’s breakfast buffet, accommodating both Hindu and European preferences, offered a diverse spread. Additionally, a daily live cooking station allowed chefs to prepare pancakes and eggs in various styles as per our requests.
What truly sets this hotel apart is its exceptional service (almost five-star!) – one of the best I’ve experienced in all my travels.
The staff, consistently helpful and friendly, provided freshly brewed tea or coffee at any time, engaging in friendly conversations, showcasing their genuine concern for guest well-being. If you’re planning a Mumbai stay, Residency Hotel is the ideal choice!
What to Explore in Mumbai?
Khala Goda
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus
One of my initial stops in Mumbai was at a prominent colonial-era site, the renowned Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. Dating back to the late 19th century and formerly known as Victoria Terminus, this architectural marvel boasts an impressive neo-Gothic facade adorned with gargoyles featuring dog faces.
While the station’s interior left me with a less favorable impression due to its neglect, the historical significance and UNESCO World Heritage recognition in 2004 make it a must-visit location. It is believed that this site witnessed the departure of the first Indian train several decades before the current station’s establishment.
Jehangir Art Gallery
Apart from the Victorian buildings, Mumbai boasts a wealth of attractions, including numerous art galleries and museums. Among them, the Jehangir Art Gallery stands out, offering a chance to explore captivating works of contemporary Indian art at no cost.
Make a point to visit, not only for the art but also for the panoramic views from the gallery’s rooftop. Although the rooftop cafe was closed during my visit, it didn’t dampen the experience of enjoying the scenery.
The gallery operates from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM, providing ample time for art enthusiasts to immerse themselves in the vibrant world of Indian contemporary art.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Churchgate
Marina Drive
Discover the allure of Marina Drive, a renowned over three-kilometer seaside promenade in Mumbai, beloved by locals and tourists alike.
Also known as the Queen’s Necklace, this captivating stretch along one of the city’s main streets boasts an arched shape resembling a string of pearls when illuminated by streetlights from above at night.
This bustling promenade never sleeps, and evenings seem to intensify its vibrant energy. Despite the lively atmosphere, it’s a must-visit, particularly in the enchanting glow of the setting sun, showcasing its most picturesque views.
Experience the dynamic charm of Marina Drive during your Mumbai exploration.
Chowpatty Beach
No Mumbai travel guide is complete without a mention of Chowpatty Beach, situated at the northern end of Marine Drive. Renowned for its breathtaking sunset views, this beach is a popular relaxation spot for families and couples.
Although swimming is discouraged due to the toxic water, a visit to one of the stalls serving bhelpuri is a must. Bhelpuri, a popular savory snack made from puffed rice, tomatoes, onions, boiled potatoes, and served with various sauces, is a Mumbai delicacy you shouldn’t miss.
Explore the charm of Chowpatty Beach during your Mumbai adventure.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Colaba
Gateway of India
Situated at the southern tip in the bustling Colaba neighborhood, the Gateway of India stands as one of Mumbai’s premier landmarks, if not an iconic symbol for the entire nation.
This 30-meter basalt arch, erected in the early 20th century, commemorates the historic visit of King George V and his consort, representing a powerful symbol of conquest and colonization.
Today, it serves as a popular meeting place for locals, vendors, photographers, and global tourists alike. It’s also an ideal spot to savor a variety of local specialties.
Regrettably, during my visit, the Gateway of India was closed, depriving me of the chance to witness its everyday charm.
Nevertheless, I believe the most breathtaking view of the Gateway of India is from the sea, aboard a boat journey to the nearby Elephanta Island. Explore the captivating allure of the Gateway of India during your Mumbai exploration.
Taj Mahal Palace
Nestled beside the iconic Gateway of India, the globally acclaimed and luxuriously opulent five-star hotel, the Taj Mahal Palace, is reputedly one of the most captured landmarks in all of India. Undeniably, the Taj Mahal Palace exudes a truly impressive presence, especially when viewed from the sea.
Moreover, this hotel boasts a rich and captivating history. Hosting numerous distinguished personalities and serving as a sanctuary during the struggle for independence, it has played a significant role.
Unfortunately, following the 2008 attacks, when haunting images of the hotel ablaze circulated globally, it unintentionally became a symbol of terrorism.
Consider at least a one-night stay at this historic hotel – it’s an experience worth savoring. Unfortunately, my budget didn’t allow for that.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Cruise to the Elephanta Island
If the vibrant and crowded heart of Mumbai begins to lose its appeal after a few days, consider embarking on a serene cruise to the nearby Elephanta Island.
This island boasts ancient rock-cut temples dedicated to Shiva, creating a tranquil escape. From the waterfront just behind the Gateway of India, multiple ferries depart daily (from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm), with tickets priced at around 200 rupees, conveniently available at on-site booths before departure.
The hour-long cruise provides a scenic journey, and it’s recommended to secure a shaded spot to escape the intense sun. Upon arrival, a brief walk along a concrete pier and a climb up stairs lined with local vendors precede the enchanting exploration of the caves.
While there’s an additional entrance fee to access the cave complex (600 rupees per person), independent exploration reveals seven ancient caves and a variety of rock-carved statues, including a remarkable six-meter statue of the three-faced god Shiva in the Great Temple.
For a comprehensive exploration of the entire complex, plan to spend approximately two hours. A visit to Elephanta is ideal for those with an extended stay in Mumbai, as the entire excursion takes about half a day.
Mumbai Travel Guide: Dharavi Slums Tour
Mumbai is undoubtedly a city of great contrasts. While hosting some of the globe’s wealthiest, approximately 60% of residents grapple with severe poverty in the sprawling slums.
Among them, Dharavi, spanning three kilometers and housing nearly one million people, stands as one of the world’s most densely populated areas.
Initially inhabited by fishermen, Dharavi evolved into a melting pot, attracting diverse workers from across India – potters from Gujarat, textile laborers from Uttar Pradesh, and Tamil leather tanners who continue their trade to date.
Reality Tours & Travel
Contemplating a visit to Dharavi led me to question whether it transcended the pitfalls of “human zoos.” The decision solidified upon discovering Reality Tours & Travel, opting for a morning tour led by a local guide (starting from 1,400 rupees). This socially responsible agency channels 80% of profits to charitable causes, notably supporting children’s education.
During the insightful four-hour tour through labyrinthine alleyways, I witnessed residents’ lives, showcasing resilience amid poverty. Dharavi hosts nearly 15,000 small-scale units, contributing to an estimated $600 million in annual turnover.
Noteworthy is its relatively lower illiteracy rate, with nearly 15% of children pursuing higher education. Beyond commerce, Dharavi accommodates hospitals, schools, and multi-faith temples, underscoring its complexity and vibrancy.
My visit to a local school allowed me to contribute essential supplies to the children, adding a personal touch to this immersive experience.
Local Workshops
Embark on a journey through Dharavi, unveiling its vibrant microcosm of artisanal endeavors. From potteries to soap makers, textiles, and leather crafters, these local workshops showcase the resilience and creativity of Dharavi’s residents.
Witness the meticulous process of waste segregation, where every small item finds a purpose.
Despite challenging conditions and modest compensation, the denizens of Dharavi take pride in their origin and thriving businesses.
This immersive tour not only reveals the captivating history of slums but also provides a close encounter with resilience and authentic hospitality.
For a transformative experience in Mumbai, delve into the heart of Dharavi and emerge with a renewed perspective on life.
Where to Eat in Mumbai?
Burma Burma
Savor the extraordinary at this contemporary gem located near Kala Ghoda’s artistic hub. Unquestionably Mumbai’s best, this restaurant offers delectable Burmese cuisine at surprisingly affordable rates given its quality.
From the appetizing corn puree with curry and coconut cream paired with crispy paratha bread to the flavorful Khowsuey soup with noodles as the main course, every dish is a culinary masterpiece.
Complete your gastronomic journey with an exquisite cocktail and decadent dessert. For an unforgettable dining experience, this establishment is a must-visit in Mumbai.
The Goose and Gridiron
When near the famous Victoria Station, it’s worth stopping by The Goose and Gridiron, a restaurant located in an elegant building. This establishment boasts a cozy, charming garden and captivates with its unique decor from the moment you step inside.
The menu offers a wide selection of international dishes. During my visit, I opted for vegetable soup, an Indian variation of my favorite Khao Soi, and white fish in a lemon-mustard sauce with fresh herbs.
Everything harmonized exceptionally well, and I left the restaurant completely satisfied. I recommend this place to anyone looking to break away from Indian cuisine and try something different.
Cafe Mondegar
If you’re in Colaba and in the mood for a quick, casual European-style lunch with the option to enjoy a good cocktail, head to the old-school Café Mondegar. This place is very popular among both locals and tourists.
During my visit, the main hall was bustling with people, so I was seated in a smaller, more intimate room at the back of the restaurant. Since I was quite hungry that day, I opted for a large plate of creamy spaghetti as my main course.
While it may not have matched the pasta I’ve had in Tuscany, accompanied by a glass of white wine, it surprisingly tasted quite delightful 😉 A perfect spot for a get-together with friends.
Revival
Embark on a culinary journey at Revival, a sea-facing restaurant famed for serving one of Mumbai’s finest thalis. My visit, inspired by a day at Chowpatty Beach, held the promise of savoring a thali comparable to the delightful one in Palolem.
Regrettably, my experience began on a challenging note due to the restaurant’s policy – thalis are exclusively served in an ‘all you can eat‘ style, preventing a single order for two people. After a spirited exchange with the staff, I succeeded in securing just one thali, though the ordeal significantly dampened my appetite.
However, the thali itself proved to be genuinely delectable, albeit on the pricier side at approximately 500 rupees. Attired in chic attire, the waitstaff consistently delivered new sauces and accompaniments, ensuring I departed with a contented stomach.
Despite the off-putting and haughty service, Revival stands as a must-visit for thali enthusiasts, offering a unique and flavorful culinary experience.
The Pantry
If you’re yearning for delectable coffee or a sweet indulgence while exploring Mumbai, make your way to The Pantry, a bakery and café nestled in a stylish, meticulously restored townhouse.
Boasting an interior reminiscent of charming French bistros, this establishment offers a diverse array of sandwiches, cakes, cookies, and other irresistible baked goods.
Beyond delightful pastries, you can savor scrumptious and health-conscious lunches, as well as a variety of breakfast options. Located in the heart of the artistic district of Kala Ghoda, The Pantry’s ambiance is further enriched by its proximity to cultural and creative hubs.
Although prices align with Mumbai’s upscale standards, the temptation of these culinary delights is simply irresistible!
Sassy Spoon
The last restaurant I visit in Mumbai, and indeed in all of India, is located right by Marine Drive in a modern skyscraper, Sassy Spoon. This place exudes a sense of freshness, and its menu boasts numerous intriguing items inspired by Mediterranean and modern Indian cuisine.
I opted for a three-course feast featuring baked Camembert tartlets with chili jam, Korean-style chicken wings, walnut dumplings with ricotta and garlic cream, dark chocolate cake with basil filling, and red velvet cake with cappuccino foam and raspberry caviar.
Despite the relatively modest portions and higher prices, all the dishes taste exquisite. I left the establishment thoroughly satisfied. It’s the perfect spot for a delightful evening outing and drinks!
Mumbai Travel Guide: Final Thoughts
Unfortunately, after spending several days in Mumbai, I must admit with regret that the city did not captivate me. Compared to other places in India I’ve had the pleasure to visit, I find Mumbai to be quite average.
The challenging weather conditions, numerous crowds, and persistent vendors are just a few reasons why I probably won’t be returning.
Additionally, it seems that the city is not adequately prepared for tourists—both exploring on foot and using public transportation is difficult, mainly due to frequent traffic jams. Unfortunately, it’s also impossible to ignore the issue of homelessness in Mumbai, which is a significant problem…
On the other hand, I was fascinated by the excellent restaurants offering diverse specialties from around the world and the extraordinary residents of the city.
Visiting the Dharavi slums, where despite the lack of basic necessities, people find joy in life, led me to deep reflection. Moreover, this experience reinforced my belief in the importance of looking at life from the perspective of the local community.
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