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After an eventful visit to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, it was time to conquer another amazing Javanese volcano – Kawah Ijen. This volcano is one of the many craters located inside the huge caldera of ancient Ijen, reaching 2799 m above sea level, and is known primarily for the exploitation of sulfur and the world’s largest (!) acid lake. Below you will find our report from the trip to this amazing place. I hope that with this post we will prove to you that Java is definitely a must visit place in Indonesia. Happy reading!

On the way to the crater: blue flames

On this day, as usual, we woke up in the middle of the night, and around 2.00 am we set off towards Ijen, together with a team from Haevenly Java. The road leading from Banyuwangi turned out to be bumpy and in places practically impassable. Fortunately, despite the fact that we did not have a four-wheel drive car, after about an hour we safely got to the Paltuding forest stop. From there, in complete darkness, we started an hour’s climb to the edge of the volcano. Along the way, we had individual groups of tourists and local thieves who offered us a ride on… a wheelbarrow. After reaching the slope of the volcano, we put on our gas masks and we slowly descended to the crater with a steep, rocky path. And all this to be able to admire the unusual phenomenon, called by the locals blue fire. The electrifying blue flames are in fact the sulfuric gas coming at a high temperature (up to 600°C) which, when in contact with the air, ignites, giving an amazing spectacle in the dark. Flames can reach up to several meters high (!) and Kawah Ijen is one of the largest such areas in the world. We must admit that the blue glow emerging from the depths of the volcano has made quite an impression on us!

Sulfur porters

With the arrival of the day, the blue fire became less and less visible until it almost completely disappeared. The spectacle was over, so we decided to go back to the crater slopes to admire the views of the turquoise acid volcanic lake (the largest reservoir in the world), against the background of yellow sulfur, in the splendor of the rising sun. Unfortunately, the clouds of smoke floating above the volcano effectively prevented us from doing so. On the trail leading to the volcano’s slopes, we met the local sulfur porters who migrate to the crater and back, inhaling toxic fumes all the time. Loaded like mules, clad in ordinary clothes, they steadfastly march to the nearest village, a few kilometers away from the mine, passing the weighing point along the way. For one kilogram of sulfur extracted they usually receive the equivalent of six cents. On their shoulders they carry a burden often exceeding their own, which we had the opportunity to convince ourselves, trying to lift the basket of one of the workers. From the other worker we bought souvenirs in the form of yellow figurines made of sulfur and went for a short trekking along the edge of the volcano. For the last time we were enjoying the view of the intense green surface of the lake and after seven o’clock we decided to come back. That day we were still waiting for ferry crossing to the neighboring island – Bali.

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Ferry crossing to Bali

After returning to the hotel, we took a quick shower, enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the picturesque surroundings of the nearby rice fields and said goodbye to the nice owners. Then, for the last time together with the team from Heavenly Java, we went several kilometers north to the marina in Ketapang, from where the ferry to Bali leaves. The ferry runs every twenty minutes all day long, and prices are 6000 Rp per person. Although theoretically the crossing between the two islands should take no longer than half an hour, loading and unloading may take an additional time (which we had the opportunity to experience). And so, instead of at 1.30 pm, we are mooring in Bali after 2.00 pm. Fortunately, our Nyoman driver, whom we had previously booked via the Internet (and who turned out to be a hippie of flesh and blood), patiently waited for us at the marina in Gilimanuk. For forty dollars, he took us to the gates of the Pandawa Village Hotel in Lovina, a small town on the north coast of Bali. At the sight of our intimate place, located between majestic rice fields, he shook his head in disbelief and said: Wow, eksekutif. Well, it’s hard to disagree with him…

Lovina Beach

After checking in at the hotel and a welcome drink, we decided to go out to the city looking for good food. However, before we went to Global Village Kafe, we went to Lovina Beach to walk in the light of the setting sun. As soon as we arrived at the place, we were accosted by local vendors trying to sell us traditional sarongs. As we were going to buy sarong anyway, after short negotiations, we finally bought two pieces for 350,000 Rp. By the way, at a local fisherman, we have also booked a popular delphin tour, which is nothing like a sunrise boat trip in search of dolphins passing by. At a promotional price of 75,000 Rp per person, the fisherman additionally promised to pick us up from the hotel and serve a traditional Balinese breakfast in the middle of the sea. He was so determined that we could not refuse him.

Where to eat in Lovina?

At the end of the day, we have also moved our steps to Global Village Kafe, a restaurant that dedicates its profits entirely to the foundation financing the local health care. We chose samosas from the rich menu for the appetizer, and for the main course – Balinese tuna. Add fresh mango juice and a recipe for a successful dinner is ready! Not only it was tasty and healthy, but also for a noble purpose. We strongly recommend it!

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