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After a week spent at the foot of Merapi, it was time to say goodbye to Jogja. In the morning we took the train to Surabaya, from where we were picked up by the team from Heavenly Java. We had an all-day crossing ahead of us to Ngadisari, from where we were supposed to set out to conquer Indonesia’s most famous volcano – Mount Bromo. Below you will find a detailed report from our one-day trip. I hope this post makes you add this amazing natural wonder to your bucket list. Enjoy reading!

Direction: East Java

That day we got up earlier than usual. The last time we enjoyed the breakfast served in the gardens of Dusun Jogja Village Inn, we packed up and  checked out of the hotel. By taxi we went to Tugu railway station about twenty minutes away. We exchanged pre-purchased via Internet (for 550 thousands of rupees) vouchers for two train tickets in eksekutiv class and we headed to the platform. As there was still some time to arrival of our train, we decided to go to a nearby cafe. When we returned, it turned out that our train would arrive with more than half an hour delay. Fortunately, the rest of our journey was smooth and before 4.00 pm we finally reached the train station in Surabaya.

Where to eat in Surabaya?

While waiting for our transport, we went for a quick lunch to Loko Cafe’s on-site restaurant. This time we decided on a local variation on nasi goreng and aromatic Javanese coffee.

Where to sleep near Bromo?

When we finished our meal, our Heavenly Java tour guide appeared on the horizon, with whom we had to spend the next two days. Time to rest on the toilet and again we were ready to go. This time we headed south, specifically to Ngadisari, a small village at the foot of the famous Bromo volcano. We could not wait to be there!

Unfortunately, because of ramadan (the most important Muslim holiday of the year), there was a huge traffic on the roads, so we arrived at our Oecik hostel after 10.00 pm. In addition, it turned out that there was a shortage of electricity in the whole village, and in our “guest house” there was no hot water… Well, at least we had an unearthly view on the starry sky from the car park 😉

The outside was so cold that when we decided to go to the “city” for some food, before leaving the hotel we put on another layer of thick fleece. After a brief research, we finally got to the small roadside warung, which was the only one in the area that was able to handle us at such a late hour. Although the kitchen was already closed, especially for us nice old lady cooked soto ayam soup and warming tea. And all this in the light of a tiny flashlight because in the village there was no electricity at all. What a hospitality!

After dinner we reluctantly returned to our guest house. Fortunately, it turned out that we had access to the hot water. We took a quick shower and we went to sleep, covering with all the available “bedding”. We set the alarm clock on the phone at 3.15 am. We had less than three hours of sleep.

Trekking to the Penanjakan volcano

Unfortunately, the terrifying chill of the room effectively prevented us from falling asleep, and when we were able to squint our eyes for a moment, the sound of the engines woke us up. It turned out to be the sound of jeeps heading towards the Penanjakan volcano, the best place to admire the sunrise over Bromo. We looked at our watch nervously – it was 3.00 am. In a hurry, we put on a couple of layers of warm clothes, packed a pack of provisions and went outside, where a sleepy jeep driver was waiting for us. We ignored the local merchants who, at the occasion, tried to sell us expensive souvenirs. We took a seat at the back of the jeep and started moving forward with impetuosity. In the distance behind us we saw a pulling chain of other vehicles. A real race against time has begun.

Fortunately, after less than half an hour driving on a winding, bumpy road, we finally got to the place. Unfortunately, it turned out that despite the early hours, other tourists managed to arrive before us. We parked the jeep beside many of the others, and in the company of our guide we climbed up. Since there was still some time left for sunrise, we decided to go for hot tea to the roadside bar. After a short rest, we headed for the viewpoint. Fortunately, we managed to occupy the place just off the railing from where was the best view of the whole caldera. We set up the camera and waited impatiently for the spectacle, which we will soon witness. In the end how often do we have the opportunity to admire the sunrise over the volcano?

The view point we were on it was measuring over 2700 m a.s.l. Penanjakan volcano, located on the west side of the Tengger caldera. The caldera is located at an altitude of over 2000 m a.s.l. and is a huge desert from which the peaks of the five volcanoes grow. So, after 5.30, a long-awaited performance began. Behind the horizon began to emerge the sun, which gently highlighted the silhouettes of three volcanoes: Kursi (2581 m a.s.l.), Bromo (2392 m a.s.l.) and Batok (2440 m a.s.l.). In the background, the majestic Semeru volcano, the highest peak of Java (3676 m n.p.m.), appeared. For one short moment, before the day comes, the whole caldera has taken on the beautiful palette of colors that everyone has tried to capture in the picture. For such views it was worth to wake up in the middle of the night!

Climbing the Bromo volcano

After a spectacular sunrise and hundreds of photos, it was time to reach the summit of Mount Bromo. Bromo, although the lowest of all caldera peaks, is the only one still showing volcanic activity. From the inside of the volcano, dense smoke emits a characteristic smell of sulfur. Despite the constant danger, the volcano still attracts crowds of tourists from around the world (the last eruption took place in 2016).

From the Penanjakan view point we went back to the jeep and drove by the steep, endless serpentine down to the caldera. We drove through the picturesque Tengger Sand Sea desert, called by locals Laut Pasir Tengger and after a while we were on the spot. Traditionally, we parked the vehicle next to many others and on foot we went towards the smoky Bromo. There was a lot of dust in the air, which pinched our eyes. In dust clouds we could barely see people marching in the distance. There was a lot of ponies and locals who offered to lazy tourists reaching the top in the saddle. We decided to cross the desert on our own. . We passed lcoated on the sandy plain the Hindu temple of Pura Luhur Poten and started climbing. It was getting warmer, so we pulled off more clothes. We overcame the last obstacle in the form of 253 concrete steps leading to the summit and finally we stood over the edge of the volcano. From the inside of the volcano there were ominous sounds and around it was the smell of sulfur. For a moment we carefully walked along the crater and looked into Bromo’s interior. Once again we looked back, admired the spectacular panorama and decided to go back. What an exciting start to the day!

Where to eat near Bromo?

After visiting the Bromo National Park, we went to breakfast at the nearby hostel Cafe Lava. For 40 thousands rupees per person without restrictions we were able to use the hotel’s buffet. The menu was typical Indonesian cuisine (goreng and goreng) so we could eat well. The price included hot drinks. Several cups of coffee drunk put us on our feet.

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A secret waterfall in Java

After breakfast we went with the Heavenly Java crew to the located in the north-east of Bromo Air Terjun Umbulan waterfall. To get there, we had to cross the overgrown path through a thick forest (note: you should move very carefully because the stones are really slippery and the ladders leading down the waterfall are rusty and steep). However, it is worth a little sacrifice as this place has its unique intimate charm. Apparently the locals, who are the only ones who know about this place, come here in leisure time to relax and swim in crystal clear water. As we were tired after the morning climbing on the volcano, we gave up the swimming and just took some nice pictures.

Pasir Putih Beach

After visiting the “hidden” waterfall, we headed towards the hotel near Kawah Ijen where we had to spend the next night. On the way, we stopped for lunch at the Churien Restaurant where we ate the average sataye and then went to the local Pasir Putih Beach.

On the beach we decided to rent a traditional Javanese boat for 150,000 rupees (the price included a local helmsman) and we drifted out into the deep sea to admire the underwater flora and fauna through special glass bottom boxes. Unfortunately, it turned out that the local coral reef did not belong to the most beautiful and lost its original color. Well, at least we were pleased to see some exotic fishes…

Where to sleep in Banyuwangi?

After a visit to the beach we headed directly to Banyuwangi, a village on the eastern tip of Java. After less than three hours of driving, we checked in at Paddy Hills Homestay, a climate-friendly guest house surrounded by picturesque rice paddies.

This time, instead of a cramped room, we had a completely new private bungalow built in traditional Javanese style. It turned out that the hotel was recently opened and is run by a young friendly couple who did everything to make our stay enjoyable. Despite the late hours, the owners served us a great dinner ordered at one of the local restaurants. In the evening, we tried such specialties as traditional bakso soup with juicy beef meatballs and Tahu Tek, a meatless dish consisting of peanut fried tofu, lontong (rice wrapped in banana leaf), potatoes, bean sprouts and cucumber slices. After such a hearty feast, tired after an eventful day, we set the alarm clock at 1.00 am and finally went to bed. We knew we had to be rested as the next day we were going to take a trip to the next ancient volcano – Kawah Ijen!

What places do you recommend in Java? Let us know below!

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